Method of making shoes



April 19, 1932.

J. E. DlsH METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filecl Aug. 5, 1931 INVENTOR @HNEDISCH T T A H Y B Patented Apr. 19, 1932 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICEJOHN E. DISCH, OF DOLGEVILLE, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR T DANIEL GREEN COMPANY,OF DOLGEVILLE, NEW YORK, A CORPORATION OF MASSACHUSETTS METHOD or MAKING`snons Application filed August 5, 19317. Serial No. 555,184.

My invention relates more particularly to methods of making shoes orslippers lined with fabric material and known to the trade as cut-outshoes, and is especially directed i to improved methods for finishingthe edges of the fabric linings to render them adaptable for use inconjunction with the cutout7 uppers embodied in such type of shoes andslippers.

The objects of my invention are, among other things7 to provide new andimproved methods of treating the fabric shoe linings to render itpossible to cut out the desired openings in the uppers after the shoe orslipper is lasted and otherwise finished, without obtaining any raw orfrayed edges and without diminishing in any way from the strength of theadjacent seams or wearing qualities of such shoe or slipper.

My improved methods involve the stiftening of the cloth backing of thelining fabric by a suitable sizing which prevents the cloth edges of themulti-ply material from fraying, and at the same time cements the weaveso that a strong seam is obtained along the lines where the uppers andlinings are sewed close to the edges of the shoe material. By

using my new methods a clean-cut and welldefined edge is obtained thatis equal to, or even better than, the cut-out edges obtained by the useof leather linings which are generally embodied in all cut-out slippersand shoe designs of this character now on the market.

Other objects and advantages will appear from the following descriptionwhen taken with the annexed drawings in which- Fig. 1 is a perspectiveview of a shoe or slipper made according to my improved *e methods;

Fig. 2 is a plan View of the upper partly divided or opened up to showhow my methods are practiced;

Fig. 3 is an enlarged section taken on the line 3-3 of Fig. 2; and

Fig. 4t is a det-ail view showing the cut out edges of the cloth backingand lining fabric.

Similar numerals refer to similar parts 50 throughout the severalfigures.

Referring to the drawings, the Vupper' 5 in Fig. 1 is fastened in theusual way to the sole 6 to which isaliixed the heel 7. The lningmaterial 9 (Fig. 3) and its therewith com bined cloth backing 9A are cutto the required shape to be fastened to the sole 6, and then the backing9A is thentreated by any suitable sizing tofstiffen `same beforesuchlining 9 is stitched to the outer material 8.

Preferably I use a mixture of pyroxylin cement cut with a suitablesolvent or thinning agent'combined with a dye so that in one operaticnVthe cloth backing 9A is stiifened and dyed to match the lining fabric 9used in making' the shoe. This dyed pyroXylin cement is rst spread onthe lining backing cloth 9A (shown by dotted portions in Figs. 2 and' 4)andthen'the outer material 8 with its backing 8A and lining Vfabric arelaid together in parallelism, and sewed Valong the edges of the proposedcut cutV design by the seams of 'stitching 10, as shown in Figs. 1, 2and 3.

This cement stiflensV the lining backing cloth 9A and, after thestitchings 10 have been made, the shoe is lasted and the openings 1l aremade bycutting out the lining 9 by any suitable cutting means justinside the stitchings 10 which pass through both upper 8 and lining9.

The rubberized cement that unites the lining fabric 9 andits clothbacking 9A `prevents the sizingrfrom penetrating through the liningfabric 9, `and also overcomes the danger of stains or damage to thelining fabric 9. As shown in Fig. 3 and in the right side of Fig. ll,the edges 12 are clean cut and well defined in contrast to the frayededges 13 shown in the left of Fig. 4 where the backing 9A has not beentreated according to my methods.

The materials I prefer to use are pyroxylin cement in combination with asuitable solvent or thinning agent and dyes. However, other stiffeningagents may be used to obtain the desired results and advantages I havedescribed.

I claim as my invention:

1. The method of making cut-out uppers having linings sized in theregion of the cutout portions which comprises cementing together aplurality of plies of lining material to produce a multi-ply lining,said cement covering at least the entire contacting surfaces of thelining plies at the region of application of the sizing, the lining whenincorporated in a shoe having an inner unexposed layer, treating saidinner layer with sizing, the cement between the plies of the liningpreventing penetration of the sizing through to the exposed layer, thensewing the so treated multi-ply lining .to a cut-out upper along theedges of the cutout portions, and

then cutting out the lining material inside the sewed seams to producean unfrayed edge on the lining.

2. The method of makin-g cut-out uppers havin-g linings sized withpyroxylin in the region of the cut-out portions which comprisescementing together a plurality of plies of lining material to produce amulti-ply lining, saidcement covering yat least the entire contactingsurfaces of the lining plies at the region of application of thepyroxylin, the lining when incorporated in a shoe having an innerunexposed layer, treating said inner layer with thinned pyroxylin tostiften the inner layer, the cement between the plies of the liningpreventing the penetration of the pyroxylin through to the exposedlayer, then sewing the so treated multi-ply lining .to a cut-out upperalong the edges of the cut-out portions, and then cutting `out thelining material inside the sewed seams to produce an unfrayed edge onthe lining.

3. The method of making cut-out uppers, which comprises providing amulti-ply lining having an vouter surface tinted and a second 'untintedsurface, treating the untinted sul face of said lining with pyroxylinthinned and dyed to match lthe color -of the tinted surface, then sewingthe so treated lining to a cut-out upper at the edges of the cut-outportions withthe pyroxylin treated surface disposed next to the upper,and then cutting' out the lining material inside the sewed seams wherebyto produce 'an inconspicuous non-fraying edge on the lining.

JOHN E. DISCH.

